Exploring the Process of Making Leather Shoes in Kasur – Pakistan’s Renowned Leather Hub
Introduction
Kasur, a city located in the Punjab province of Pakistan, is renowned not only for its rich cultural heritage and Sufi legacy but also for its pivotal role in the leather industry. Among the many leather products it produces, leather shoes stand out due to their craftsmanship, quality, and demand both locally and internationally.
Leather shoe production in Kasur is more than just a business—it’s a deep-rooted tradition passed down through generations. From tanning the raw hides to stitching the final pair, the process is intensive and reflects the dedication of skilled artisans. This article explores, in detail, how leather shoes are made in Kasur, touching upon each stage of the process, the labor force involved, modern influences, challenges, and the city's contribution to the global market.
1. The Leather Industry in Kasur: A Brief Background
Kasur houses over 200 tanneries and numerous shoe manufacturing units, making it one of the largest leather processing hubs in Pakistan. The city's proximity to livestock sources and Lahore’s trading routes gives it a strategic advantage in collecting raw materials and distributing finished products.
The leather shoe industry has evolved over decades, combining traditional manual techniques with modern machinery. While the foundations remain artisanal, the introduction of semi-automated processes has helped improve quality and meet international standards.
2. Step-by-Step Process of Making Leather Shoes in Kasur
A. Procurement and Processing of Raw Hides
Collection of Animal Skins:
The process begins with the collection of animal hides, mainly cow, buffalo, goat, and sheep.
Skins are gathered from slaughterhouses and transported to tanneries.
Kasur has designated areas for skin collection and storage to ensure hygienic conditions.
Preservation and Storage:
Skins are preserved using common salt to prevent bacterial decay.
They are then stacked and stored in cool, dry warehouses until ready for tanning.
B. Tanning the Leather
Tanning is crucial for converting perishable hides into durable leather suitable for shoemaking.
Soaking and Liming:
Hides are soaked in water to remove dirt and salt.
Liming involves treating hides with lime and sulfides to remove hair and fats.
Fleshing and Deliming:
Fleshing machines remove unwanted tissue.
The pH of hides is neutralized using deliming agents.
Tanning Process:
Kasur uses both vegetable tanning and chrome tanning.
Chrome tanning is more common due to its speed and softness.
Vegetable tanning uses natural tannins, suitable for more rigid leather shoes.
Drying and Crusting:
Post-tanning, leather is dried either in open air or in controlled drying rooms.
Crusting involves thinning, dyeing, and applying chemicals to achieve the desired softness, color, and finish.
C. Cutting and Designing the Shoe Parts
Once leather is tanned, it is ready for shoemaking.
Pattern Making:
Designers create templates or "patterns" for various shoe components like uppers, linings, and soles.
These patterns ensure consistency and precision.
Cutting the Leather:
Workers use steel dies or knives to cut leather pieces.
Skilled cutters ensure minimal wastage and quality selection (no defects).
Stamping and Branding:
Logos or size numbers are stamped onto the pieces.
This is also the stage where artisan or company branding is added.
D. Stitching and Assembling the Shoe
Stitching the Upper:
The upper part (the leather that covers the foot) is stitched together using strong threads and heavy-duty sewing machines.
Lining materials are added inside for comfort and breathability.
Lasting:
The stitched upper is stretched over a shoe last (a foot-shaped mold) to give it shape.
It is tacked or glued to hold its form.
Sole Attachment:
The sole is attached using adhesives, nails, or stitching.
Common types of soles used include leather, rubber, TPR (Thermoplastic Rubber), or PU (Polyurethane).
Heel Attachment:
A heel is added and secured firmly.
Heel height and design vary depending on the shoe style (formal, casual, boots, etc.).
E. Finishing and Quality Control
Polishing and Buffing:
Shoes are polished using waxes and creams to enhance color and shine.
Buffing gives the shoe a smooth finish.
Final Quality Check:
Each pair is inspected for stitching errors, glue marks, or leather defects.
Size and comfort are verified.
Packaging:
Finished shoes are packed in labeled boxes with silica gel packets to absorb moisture.
Ready for shipping or retail sale.
3. Role of Skilled Labor and Artisans in Kasur
One of the main strengths of Kasur's leather shoe industry lies in its skilled artisans. Many families have been involved in leatherwork for generations. Their deep understanding of material behavior, stitching styles, and crafting techniques is unmatched.
Manual Skills: Even with the rise of machines, hand-stitching and manual finishing are preferred for premium shoes.
Employment: The shoe industry provides employment to thousands, including women in stitching units and quality control departments.
4. Shoe Styles Made in Kasur
Kasur is capable of producing a variety of leather shoes including:
Formal dress shoes (Oxfords, Derbies, Loafers)
Casual shoes (Moccasins, Chukkas, Sneakers)
Traditional footwear like Khussa and Peshawari chappal
Boots (Chelsea boots, Desert boots, Safety boots)
Children’s and Women’s leather shoes
5. Machinery and Modernization
While traditional techniques dominate, many modern units have adopted the latest technology:
Computer-aided design (CAD) software for pattern making
Laser cutters for precision leather cuts
Injection molding machines for synthetic soles
Automated polishing and finishing units
This modernization allows Kasur’s industry to meet ISO standards and gain certifications for international exports.
6. Environmental and Ethical Concerns
Despite its success, the industry faces environmental challenges:
Water Pollution: Tanneries discharge untreated wastewater.
Chemical Use: Chrome and other chemicals can harm ecosystems if not managed.
Child Labor: Some small units may still rely on underage workers, though efforts are being made to curb this.
The government and NGOs have introduced cleaner production techniques and wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs) to minimize environmental impact.
7. Export of Leather Shoes from Kasur
Kasur exports leather shoes to over 40 countries, including:
USA
Germany
UK
Italy
China
UAE
South Africa
Russia
Exporters comply with REACH regulations, quality certifications, and packaging standards to meet international market requirements. Kasur’s shoes are often showcased in international leather exhibitions like Lineapelle (Italy), APLF (Hong Kong), and Expo Pakistan.
8. Government Support and Industry Associations
Support from organizations like:
Pakistan Tanners Association (PTA)
Pakistan Footwear Manufacturers Association (PFMA)
TEVTA (Technical Education and Vocational Training Authority)
…helps in training the youth, providing technical skills, and offering grants or subsidies to entrepreneurs.
9. Challenges and Future Outlook
Challenges:
Rising cost of raw materials
Energy shortages
Environmental regulations tightening
Lack of global branding
Opportunities:
Expansion into online and global e-commerce
Branding as a “Made in Pakistan” high-quality shoe brand
Adoption of eco-friendly and sustainable leather techniques
Importance of Leather Shoes & Their Export Destinations
1. Importance of Leather Shoes
Leather shoes hold significant importance across various sectors due to their durability, comfort, elegance, and cultural relevance. Here’s a breakdown of their key benefits and roles:
A. Durability and Longevity
Natural leather is strong and long-lasting, making shoes ideal for regular wear.
With proper care, leather shoes can last for many years, making them a cost-effective investment.
B. Comfort and Breathability
Leather adapts to the shape of the foot, offering comfort.
Its breathable nature allows air circulation, reducing sweating and odor.
C. Aesthetic Appeal
Leather shoes exude style, class, and sophistication.
They're considered ideal for formal occasions, office wear, and business attire.
D. Versatility
Available in formal, casual, and traditional styles, suitable for all age groups and professions.
From school shoes to wedding wear to industrial boots—leather shoes cover a wide spectrum.
E. Safety and Protection
Leather provides better protection for feet from environmental hazards like heat, moisture, and rough terrain.
Safety shoes made from leather are used in factories, construction, and other industries.
F. Cultural and Traditional Significance
In many cultures (including Pakistan), traditional footwear like Khussa and Peshawari chappals are made of leather.
These are worn in religious and wedding ceremonies.
G. Economic and Industrial Importance
Leather footwear supports thousands of workers and families in countries like Pakistan, India, and Bangladesh.
In cities like Kasur, it is a major source of employment and export revenue.
2. Export of Leather Shoes: Major Markets
Leather shoes made in Pakistan (especially Kasur, Lahore, Sialkot) are exported around the world. These exports contribute significantly to the country’s economy.
Top Export Destinations for Leather Shoes
Region Key Countries
Europe Germany, UK, France, Italy, Spain, Netherlands
North America USA, Canada
Middle East UAE, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Kuwait, Oman
Asia-Pacific China, South Korea, Japan, Malaysia, Australia
Africa South Africa, Kenya, Nigeria
Russia & CIS Russia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan
Pakistan's Leather Shoe Export Data (Estimates):
Annual Export Revenue: Over $100 million USD (leather footwear only)
Top Buyer: Germany and the EU zone, due to demand for quality formal shoes
Growth Areas:
E-commerce platforms like Amazon, Alibaba, and Daraz Global
Export through international trade expos and leather exhibitions
Why International Buyers Prefer Pakistani Leather Shoes
Cost-effective pricing compared to European brands
Skilled craftsmanship
High-quality raw leather from Kasur, known for its softness and strength
Compliance with international standards like REACH (Europe) and ASTM (USA)
Efforts to Increase Exports
Pakistan’s Trade Development Authority (TDAP) promotes leather exports through:
Trade exhibitions
Export subsidies
Training and quality control initiatives
The leather shoe industry in Kasur stands as a powerful symbol of Pakistan’s rich craftsmanship, industrial capacity, and export potential. From the careful collection and tanning of animal hides to the skilled stitching and finishing of durable, elegant footwear, every step reflects dedication, tradition, and innovation.
Leather shoes are more than just fashion items—they offer unmatched durability, comfort, and prestige, making them essential in both everyday life and formal settings. Kasur’s leather shoes, with their high-quality material and expert craftsmanship, have earned global recognition and are now exported to over 40 countries, including major markets in Europe, North America, and the Middle East.
As global demand for sustainable and premium footwear grows, Kasur is well-positioned to expand its reach. With continued investment in technology, cleaner production methods, and branding, Kasur's leather shoe industry can not only support local livelihoods but also shine as a global leader in fine leather footwear.
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